Lucca, Italy

(2009) Lucca is the capital of the province of Lucca in northwestern Tuscany. With about 85,000 residents, Lucca is located 44 miles northwest from Florence, 16 miles north from Pisa with the nearest airport, and a short drive to the coastal beach and port cities of Versilia, Viareggio and Livorna. Since the Roman period and for its protection, the old town had been surrounded by 39 ft high circular walls of about 2.5 miles in length which are still intact today its eleven bastions and six gates. In 1823-1832, the old fortifications atop the ramparts were converted into a public garden used as scenic walking and biking paths. The superb views of the old town with its palazzi and churches can be seen from the ramparts. The street plan of the old town laid down by the Romans has been little altered. The city gave births to both composers, Giacomo Puccini and Luigi Boccherini, and are celebrated in concerts.



There are many treasures in Lucca that will make the visit to this city of opera, olive oil, Romanesque churches, and hidden palace gardens memorable. Going through the Porta Santa Maria gate on the north into the old town and towards the right (west) along the wall down Via Della Cavallerizza, is the Piazza San Frediano and the Church of San Frediano. The church built between 1112 and 1147 is dedicated to the sixth century Bishop of Lucca of that name. The lower part of the facade is plain, vertically articulated by pilasters and columns. The upper part is dominated by a huge glittering Byzantine mosaic depicting Christ in a mandorla (pointed aureole) flanked by two Angels, with the Twelve Apostles below. The interior is decorated with frescoes.





Walk through the Piazza San Frediano and head down Via Fillungo, one of the main streets in Lucca running north and south. Via Fillungo is lined with elegant and fashionable clothing/shoe and accessory shops intermingled with restaurants and ancient tower-houses dating back to the 15th and 16th century. It is the place to shop in Lucca. On Via Fillungo, you will reach Piazza Anfiteatro which was the second century B.C. site of the Roman amphitheatre. The ruins from the amphitheatre were used as the foundation several feet below street level for the surrounding houses.




Continuing down Via Fillungo and to the west is the impressive San Michele in Foro. Built atop the Roman Forum, the building of the present church begun in the 12th century and into the 14th century. The imposing five story-story west front displays the striking Pisan-Romanesque stacked arcades. In the lower story, which is broken up by arches borne on columns, are three doorways; on the pillars at the right-hand end is Madonna and Child by Civitale. The upper stories have dwarf galleries, the columns of which are inlaid with colored stone and topped by capitals of varying form. Some of the columns are carved with inlaid figures of animals and monsters. On the highest point of the facade is an over-life-size figure of the Archangel Michael, flanked by two smaller figures of Angels.







Coming down (south) Via Vittorio Veneto will be Piazza Napoleone. The Piazza Napoleone is Lucca's principal square that lies in the southwest of the old town within the walls. It was laid out in the time of Elisa Baciocchi. Passing between Piazza Napoleone and the cathedral to the east is the Church of San Giovani which was rebuilt in the 12th century. Along Via Duomo, is the Piazza San Martino and the Duomo.


The richly decorated Romanesque facade masterpiece of the Duomo or Cattedrale di San Martino (San Martin Cathedral) was the work of Lombard architect Guidetto da Como (1204). There are four scenes in the main doorway from the life of St Martin, to whom the church is dedicated. The interior consists of a nave flanked by aisles and a two-aisled transept, with a semicircular apse at the east end. Round-headed arches borne on piers support galleries with two tripartite windows. The sculptures found inside the Duomo include the 15th century master Matteo Civitale, Ilaria del Carretto's (second wife of Paolo Guinigi) impressive tomb, Tintoretto's Last Supper (1591), and the greatest treasure in Lucca, Volto Santo (or Holy Face) , supposedly carved by Nicodemus from wood of a cedar of Lebanon. Volto Santo is an effigy of Christ on the Cross, housed in a little temple made for it by Matteo Cvitali.

Driving is not recommended inside the walled old town. There are many one-way narrow streets to maneuver including the pedestrians. There are parking lots inside and outside each of the six gates. Bicycling and walking are the usual methods even for the locals of getting around in the old city.