AIX-EN-PROVENCE (Aix) is the historic capital and one of the main cities of central Provence. Aix is an elegant city that achieved fame when “Good King René,” count of Provence, and his wife chose it as their preferred residence in the 1450s. Upon his death Aix fell under the rule of the French crown and was made the seat of parliament. The city flourished in the 17th and 18th centuries and became one of the most prosperous metropolises of the region. Much of Aix’s elegant architecture is attributed to this period of affluence. What makes Aix unique is its complacently conservatism and its stunning beauty. The elegant historic university town has an impressive array of Renaissance buildings and an arty youthful feel. For centuries, a town of art and culture, it is famous as the home of Paul Cézanne who was born here and did most of his work in Aix.


Many visitors are content to get no farther than the town's tree-shaded main street,
Cours Mirabeau, where it is perfect just to stroll on the wide pavement or sit outdoor table under the trees and watch the crowds. This broad central boulevard is the town's main attraction, appealing for its quiet and bustle walkways. Its double row of leafy plain trees shades hundreds of cafe tables on the north side including the classic brasserie
Les Deux Garcons that dates from the 1790's and has been registered as a historic monument. The road is lined with 17th and 18th century mansions with elaborate ironwork balconies supported by huge caryatids that now house banks and offices. Down the middle of the boulevard are four natural fountains, including the moss-covered natural hot-spring Fontaine d'Eau Thermale, and at the southern end, Fontaine de la Rotonde. The Rotunda was erected in 1860. Surmounting this monumental fountain are three statues representing justice (facing Aix), Agriculture (facing Marseille) and the Arts (facing Avignon). For visitor information, the official tourism office is located nearby.
Cours Mirabeau marks the southern boundary of
Vieil Aix, the attractive Medieval and Renaissance old quarter and heart of Aix, enclosed by a ring of avenues and squares that have replaced the town's ramparts. Vieil Aix is a place to explore at a leisurely pace; there are markets, pretty little squares with splashing fountains and lively narrow pedestrian-only lanes. The town's main square, place de l'Hotel de Ville, with its Italianate town hall is here. From one corner of the building is a 16th century belfry, the Tour de L'Horloge, its tower adorned with an astronomical clock. Three days a week (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday), the vivid hues and scents of a flower market fill the square. Place Richelme, close by, has a daily produce market and is a main hangout for street musicians and students.

Atelier Cézanne or Cézanne's studio is of interest simply as a perfectly preserved house and studio of the 1900's, although it contains none of the artist's work. The story is that Cézanne was mocked by locals, and with difficulty endured their daily ridicule as he made his way out to paint, carrying his easel and palette and ignoring his tormentors. Near the end of his life and after the death of his mother, Cézanne became highly productive and began to earn an income from sales of his work in Paris, Berlin, and Vienna, but not in Aix. He had this handsome studio-house built on a hill above the cathedral and from 1897 to his death in 1906, Cézanne spend most of his time here. Dozens of paintings, including his last "Large Bathers" were painted in this studio of light and silence. A small collection of minor early Cézanne paintings are on display at the Musee Granet.


The
Cathedrale St-Sauveur is located on the route of an ancient Roman road, the Via Aurelia, north of cours Mirabeau. This Roman Catholic cathedral is an interesting mix of styles from Romanesque to baroque, spanning the 5th to th 17th centuries. A 16th-century Gothic portal features elaborately carved doors (opened by a guide on request). The cathedral is flanked on the north by an incomplete tower. Look for the 16th century Flemish tapestries in the chancel, which were stolen from Canterbury Cathedral during the English Civil War. The ancient baptistery , off the right-hand nave, contains traces of the main street of the Roman town. There are superb pieces of medieval art, notably Nicolas Froment's triptych of the
Burning Bush in the central nave, painted by King Rene in 1476; the king and his Queen Jeanne are kneeling in prayer on either side of the Virgin, who is poised above a burning bush. To avoid light damage, the triptych is only opened for viewing on Tuesdays from 3 to 4.
Aix has seven annual festivals, including the important Festival d'Aix (Festival International d'Art Lyrique et del a Musique), an opera festival lasting for around three weeks in July.
